Friday, 8 February 2013

Outerstem, Sternpost and Deadwoods fitted


What seemed like a formality, took quite a while to accomplish, however today I finally was able to view the the fruits of my labour.

Getting the deadwoods to fit snug with the curve of the keel was a slow process, equally fitting it to the lead keel was slow, but somewhat easier as the lead keel is relatively straight.  I used a stick of chalk to cover the entire mating surface on the keel and pressed the deadwood onto the keel - this left chalk high spots on the deadwood which I then addressed using a variety of tools, including my new Japanese wood file.  In the end I finished up using my Metabo orbital sander with 60 grit discs which was quite effective at removing material from the curved surface.  I did check on eBay to see if I could pick up a compass plane, but they all seem to go for big bucks.  I toyed with the idea of investing in a Arbortech Power plane disc, but at over 130 euros, it seemed expensive, so I persevered with files and sanders. 
Most satisfying was drilling the sternpost and deadwoods for the 3/8" bronze threaded bar which by all accounts presents the distinct possibility for drilling off centre.  So armed with a 10mm augur bit I took a line of the scale drawing with my mitre gauge and used this to line up my drill.  Taking it slowly and frequently clearing the bit, ended up with a dead straight result for both bolts.  However, I possibly should have drilled for the countersunk part first and then continued on with the 10mm bit, as doing so after drilling the main hole, it was tricky to centre a forstner bit to widen out the recess.  So I will deploy that technique for the remaining keel bolts which are larger 1/2" bronze threaded bar.
Fitting the keel filler was more problematic - as it turned out I had to remove so much material from the middle of the filler that it ended up in two pieces (actually three - since the two legs of the tuning fork were separated from the other part.
Reverted to handsaw having toiled with a hand plane....!
I am considering the idea of placing the lead keel on top of the hull to drill the keel bolts and finish fairing in the keel and deadwoods.  I would then remove it prior to turning up the hull.  


All the tools in the box thrown at it!
Fish eye lens adds extra curves to the hull!



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6 comments:

  1. Nordicboats17 February 2013 at 20:38

    Keep up the good work. As I used to tell my installers before I retired (If it was easy everyone would be doing it). I have gained more pleasure out of build the Somes Sound and anything I have done in the past. Dave

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  2. Unknown10 March 2013 at 23:44

    Less gap and curving shape of boat is more accurate and easy to drive with save.
    Roger

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  3. Amanda15 March 2013 at 05:39

    This comment has been removed by the author.

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  4. Nordicboats24 March 2013 at 16:03

    The next time you find yourself needing to countersink an existing hole try drilling the countersink hole into a separate piece of wood and attaching the block with the hole drilled over the smaller hole. Attach with hotmelt glue or pins and it becomes a chase to keep your larger bit centered over the existing hole while you drill the countersink.

    Dave Johnson

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    Replies
    1. Embla28 March 2013 at 04:31

      Dave that's an excellent tip!! Thanks for keeping an eye on my build. .. currently working on sole beams. Also interested to hear your thoughts on cutting v grooves in bulkhead or leaving it plain? ? Thanks Paul

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    2. Nordicboats6 April 2013 at 20:03

      I cut the groves mainly to give it a little design. If you have a good looking piece of wood and plan to varnish it I'd leave the grooves out. I was simply following John Brookside's lead and then wound up painting the panel. If I have enough Brazilian Cherry left over I may make the by fold doors out of cherry. Just finished making a Cherry cap rail for the coaming and am very pleased with the way it turned out. I'll post pictures in a day or so.

      Dave

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