If you look closely you can see where I re-modeled the plank of 10" sapele so that I could get the deck curve out of the smaller stock - otherwise I would have needed a 14" wide board. Even though you can see the different wood grain, the fact that both sides are symmetrical makes it quite attractive - at least to my eyes.
Once I had both side of the coamings laminated, I decided to glue both on at the same time so that I could adjust each coaming where they join at the front and ensure a symmetric fit.
Here you can see where I had jammed two lenghts of 2x1 on top of each coaming close to the front join up to the workshop ceiling in order to give me sufficient downward pressure.
I also re-purposed the clamping cauls which JohnB describes in his instructions for the fore deck. I clamped these sideways at the front of each coaming and then placed a further clamp on them to pull the coamings together at the joint. It seemed to work fine and allowed for finer adjustments during the final glue-up.
It's a lot of clamps but it worked out fine in the end.
Hi Paul,
ReplyDeleteThe coaming looks great. I haven't read any of John's instructions for this procedure yet as I am still a long ways off from that point of the build. But I can imagine that it is quite the wrestling match to handle the two halves at the same time. Looks like you won though!
Is there any hidden joint reinforcement at the point where they meet in the bow? Something like a biscuit or floating tennon?
Thank you for sharing.
Jeff
Jeff. Thanks for the kind comments. Alas there is no floating tenon or biscuit at the join of the coamings as the plans call for a backing piece aft of the join which I have yet to install. I reckon it will be amply strong when this is glued in place. Time will tell!
ReplyDeletePaul