John shows how to create your own Bevel Boss in his book, but this tool has proven to be a very accurate companion for me and I am doubtful if I could have recreated this with the same level of accuracy.
The biscuit joints proved to be insufficient and unnecessary so I ended up adding the blocks to place over the joints. My reason at the time for using biscuit joints was so I could lay the molds accurately down onto the top of the plans.
I became obsessed with accuracy and bought aluminium channel to allow me screw a straight edge over the FSP so that I could align the bottom of the mold on the line which represented the jig side beam.
Accuracy - John had warned me at the workshop about the cone of accuracy - a half millimeter out at one end of the boat could wind up to by 8 millimeters at the other end... perhaps an extreme example, but I got the point and heeded the warning!
Cutting the molds in pairs on my new jig saw proved quite satisfying, but I struggled to understand which marks I needed to transfer to the molds, so I ended up copying the entire plans on to the molds.
When I was finished with the molds, I re-read the introduction on the plans which stated that the boat is built over 7 molds, 3 of which are permanent frames and 4 and just for the jig....I had built 5 out of spruce, so I had missed that in fact #6 was a permanent frame to be built out of marine ply and reinforced with DF cheeks.
It was about 3 months later when one of the molds fell down from the loft in my workshop that the folly of relying on biscuit joints alone was evidenced. So I reinforced each component with an additional brace. Also the full import of the 18% MC of the spruce revealed itself when I saw how nicely warped some of the molds had become when they dried out! That didn't prove to be a problem as I was able to straighten them out when placing them on the strongback / jig.
One mold does deserve special mention - #14. When you come to positioning the transom and the transom knee, you need to cut a section out of the top of the mold to allow the knee sit in its correct place. As I write I don't have the plans in front of me, but I am 90% certain that this is not explicit on the plans. A seasoned boat builder wouldn't think twice, but for a first timer, it took me a while and some advice from Bob to go ahead and cut out the recess.
|This is the mold in action showing how the transom knee sits into the top of the mold.|